Everything you need to know about microneedling

Microneedling is a beauty treatment that has the ability to transform your skin by stimulating collagen and elastin production deep within your dermal layers. It used to be a treatment that you’d book in with your dermatologist or aesthetician, but now this skin-renewing technology is available for use at home.
 
There’s a lot to know about microneedling and how to get the best results from your microneedling device. How does it work? What are the benefits? How do I do it at home? And probably the most common question: does microneedling hurt?

To arm you with all the information you need, we’ve created this one-stop resource - consider it microneedling HQ. You’ll find evidence-based answers, easy-to-digest infographics, inspiring videos and helpful links.

Understanding your skin

To understand microneedling, it helps to understand the basics of your skin’s function and structure. Your skin protects your internal body parts from the outside world by creating a physical barrier. It keeps everything you need in, and everything else out. It also helps regulate your body’s temperature and moisture levels, responds to pleasure and pain, and absorbs vitamin D.

Your skin’s layers

Your skin is comprised of three layers: your hypodermis, dermis, and epidermis. Your hypodermis is the deepest layer, and is where blood vessels, fat and nerve fibres live. Above that is your dermis, which is the thickest layer. This layer is home to hair roots and follicles, sebaceous glands, and sweat glands. The top layer is the epidermis, which in itself has five sub-layers. These are the stratum basale, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum and stratum corneum.

Why are collagen and elastin important?

Collagen and elastin are naturally occurring proteins that your body produces in your dermis by cells called fibroblasts. These two proteins help keep your skin’s structure intact - it’s helpful to imagine them as cement in a brick wall.

Collagen and elastin are responsible for your skin’s firmness, plumpness, and elasticity, however,
your body produces less collagen and elastin after the age of about 25, at a rate of one to two per cent per year. This natural drop can result in common skin complaints such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dryness, dullness and loss of elasticity. This is why beauty enthusiasts are so interested in enhancing collagen and elastin production!

How microneedling works

Back to microneedling! It is a skincare treatment that creates ‘micro-channels’ using specialised medical-grade microneedles. They are incredibly thin, and when using a microneedling device like the Zobelle Maxima Microneedling Pen, they reach below the surface of the skin.

Micro-channels

Micro-channels are tiny, deliberate punctures to your skin that prompt your skin’s natural healing and self-repair process. This controlled and calibrated microneedling process stimulates collagen production, and as we know, more collagen means improved skin quality. (This process is often referred to as Collagen Induction Therapy or CIT.)

Collagen stimulation through microneedling can improve the appearance of skin troubles including fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dullness, loss of elasticity, textured skin, enlarged pores, stretch marks and scarring.

Micro-channels are the result of using a microneedling device. They are microscopic tunnels that begin on your skin’s outermost layer where the microneedle is inserted, and finish where the microneedle has reached, either in your epidermis or dermis (depending on the needle length).

These teeny-tiny temporary openings create a direct channel for products like serums, oils and moisturisers to sink further into your skin, enhancing product absorption. Topical skincare simply isn’t able to reach these deeper layers, which makes microneedling pens a game-changer if you’re serious about your skincare.

Skin needling cheat sheet: microneedling, cosmetic needling and nano-needling

Discover which skin needling method is best for your skin goals. Choose from microneedling, cosmetic needling or nano-needling, then follow the needle depth and frequency instructions.

skin needling cheat sheet - explains the difference between microneedling, nano needling and cosmetic needling

What’s the difference between microneedling, cosmetic needling and nano-needling?

There are three main kinds of skin needling: microneedling, cosmetic needling and nano-needling, and they each have their own benefits.

Microneedling

Microneedling is the most intense and deep method of skin needling. It reaches your skin’s dermis layer, using a regular Zobelle Maxima Microneedling Pen cartridge at 0.5mm to 3mm. This triggers fibroblast cells to produce more collagen. This produces the most impressive results, however it can only be done every four to six weeks as your skin will need time to properly heal and regenerate.

Cosmetic needling

Cosmetic needling hits your skin’s epidermis layer using a regular Zobelle Maxima Microneedling Pen cartridge at 0.2mm to 0.3mm depth. This can be done once a fortnight as it isn’t as intense as microneedling. It stimulates your skin’s growth factors, which are proteins that encourage cell renewal and rejuvenation.

Nano-needling

Nano-needling requires a specialised cartridge, as it uses silicone ‘needles’ that create micro-channels in the skin’s uppermost layer, the stratum corneum. As it is less intense on your skin, it can be used once a week. This skin needling method enhances product absorption and can assist with surface-level skin renewal.

How to microneedle at home

Learn how to master professional microneedling methods at home with this step-by-step lesson. You’ll find out which beauty supplies you’ll need on hand, how to use your microneedling device, what to expect immediately after using it, and how to care for your skin after the treatment.

Microneedling preparation

It’s important to properly prepare your skin before skin needling. This reduces the chance of irritation, injury or infection, so it’s a pretty big deal.

To minimise irritation, we recommend you stop using any kind of retinoid or vitamin A product three to five days before your treatment. It’s also best to avoid fish oil supplements or anti-inflammatories three to five days before your treatment, as this reduces the risk of bleeding. (Chat to your doctor about this if you’re not sure.)

When you’re ready for your treatment, double cleanse and dry your skin. Apply an alcohol solution such as Isocol Rubbing Alcohol to your skin with a cotton ball or pad. This is an antiseptic step to reduce the risk of infection – don’t skip it! If you’re using an over-the-counter numbing cream, now is the time to apply it. Numbing creams can take some time to become effective, so wait for it to kick in before starting your treatment.

Once your numbing cream is working, apply a nourishing serum (we love hyaluronic acid and EGF) to help the microneedling device glide over your skin.

Microneedling aftercare

Taking care of your skin after your skin needling treatment is critical to ensure it heals properly and looks magnificent. Here is a quick guide to the four key phases that your skin goes through following your treatment.

Haemorrhage phase

Time after treatment: 1 to 10 minutes.
Characteristics: Blood rushes to micro-channels, clotting process begins and inflammation appears.
Topical products to use: Tepid water, hyaluronic acid.

Inflammatory phase

Time after treatment: 1 to 4 days.
Characteristics: Micro-channels begin healing, harmful bacteria is destroyed, collagen production begins.
Topical products to use: Vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, toners, or moisturisers that have green tea extract, kiwi oil, linseed oil or resveratrol.

Proliferation and fibroblastic phase

Time after treatment: 4 to 14 days
Characteristics: Collagen and growth factors are made and skin continues healing.
Topical products to use: Kiwi oil, linseed oil, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, copper peptides, azelaic acid, broad-spectrum sun protection, cleansers, and cleansing oil. Use vitamin A and vitamin C after 7 days.

Maturation phase

Time after treatment: 14+ days
Characteristics: Collagen is supported by newly-formed cell structures and skin approaches end of healing process.
Topical products to use: All of your usual skincare products, including cleansers, toners, acids, actives, serums and moisturisers.

Microneedling essentials checklist

Here’s a handy checklist of what you’ll need before and after microneedling. Save it on your phone with a reminder of when you’re due for your next treatment. Or go analogue: print it out and keep it with your microneedling pen.

essentials checklist

Face mapping for microneedling

Which depth should I use?

When microneedling you should always tailor the depth of your needle to the area that you're treating. Generally you can go a bit deeper over fatty areas and keep it nice and shallow for delicate areas where the skin is thinner. Below is a microneedling depth chart which gives you an overview of how you might adjust your speed if you were microneedling.

zobelle microneedling face mapping guide

diagram indicating which pattern one should microneedle in

Microneedling frequently asked questions

Our curious customers often ask for our microneedling advice, and of course, we’re thrilled to help! We’ve compiled a list of questions we receive most often to get you up to speed.

Which cartridge should I use?

The cartridge comparison guide is a table which shows you exactly which cartridge you should be using depending on the application

Which speed should I use?

The faster the speed setting on your Zobelle Maxima microneedling pen, the deeper the needles will naturally go. You can adjust the speed setting by pressing the button on your pen. We generally recommend a speed of:

  • 1-4 for the face
  • 4-6 for the body

When you're treating sensitive areas such as around the nose and lips, you can drop this speed right down to 1-2.

How often can I microneedle?

  • Every 4-6 weeks for microneedling (0.5mm-3mm deep)
  • Every 2 weeks for cosmetic needling (0.2mm-0.3mm deep)
  • Every week for nano needling only using a special nano cartridge.

It's very important that you follow these timings! If you needle to early you can interrupt the healing process and affect the results from your treatment.

I have more questions: where do I find answers?

You can find our full FAQ page here [link]. You can also get in contact with our skin concierge team by connecting through our live chat feature or via our contact page here.

Zobelle Maxima Microneedling Pen instruction manual

Get friendly with our microneedling device. You can familiarise yourself with its features, usage instructions and technical specifications so you know exactly what to expect. View the manual here.

Important considerations and disclaimers

Let’s make sure we’re all on the same page.

Skin needling guidelines

  • Always allow your skin to heal in between skin needling treatments.
  • Always protect your skin from the sun using broad-spectrum sunscreen and minimise sun exposure.
  • Always create a sterile and hygienic environment before, after and during treatments.
  • Cartridges are single-use and can only be used once.
  • Only use ARTG-registered devices. (Ours is.)
  • Consult with your healthcare professional to assess if skin needling is suitable for you.
  • It is not suitable if you are under 18 years of age.
  • It is not suitable if you have skin conditions such as active acne, open wounds and abrasions.
  • It may not be suitable if you have a condition that places you at a higher risk of injury or infection.

Before and after photos

With all before and after images shown on the site, no claims are made that results are guaranteed to be exactly the same. Results will vary by individual. Images of actual customers are shown for informational purposes only and are provided with patient consent for use by Zobelle only.

Zobelle products

Zobelle is only responsible for the products sold from zobelle.com. No claims, representations or warranties are made by Zobelle as to the safety, reliability, durability and performance of any products sold by other Zobelle distributors.

Before purchasing

Please consult with your doctor prior to using any Zobelle products.